In 2012, Air Canada’s Enroute Magazine ranked Model Milk #2 of the best new restaurants in Canada. Four years later the restaurant is just as popular as it was when the rankings were published. The restaurant is located in the former home of the first dairy to use heat pasteurization in Western Canada (the name, Model Milk comes from the original dairy name), and original (but updated) 1932 building. The area formerly used to milk the cows now serves those lucky enough to get a dinner reservation.
The big brother of Pigeonhole has clearly set the good older sibling example when it comes to good food and service. A 7 pm Friday night reservation, saw the restaurant humming to capacity.
The main menu is broken into four areas – bar snacks, small plates, large plates and large format for two. As there were two of us, we had the difficult decision to make, one large format plate or several smaller plates. In the interest of science, we opted for the many over the few.
We started with some Puffed Gouda Cheezies. This fun item, from the bar snacks list, was light, airy and delicious! Their look reminded me of shrimp crisp puffs, but with cheesy goodness (that I could eat). A great light bite to go with cocktails while you contemplated the menu.
Next up, the Salt Roasted Beets. The beets are wrapped then packed bottom and top in spent roasted coffee grounds and then baked. Once roasted to bring out the natural beet sweetness, they are chopped, then sit on a dusting of ground coffee, macadamia nuts, and cultured cream. The middle of the dish is a beet root mole sauce. Finally, the beets are topped with sherry wine poached beets and then glazed with a store bought coffee – which adds to the flavour and the humour of the dish.
Chickpea Falafels shared the table with the beets. The falafels are cooked separately in a stand-alone fryer so there is no cross-contamination, and can be enjoyed by those who are celiacs or gluten-free (yes, Louise, I asked this just for you). With Model Milk’s twist, the falafels are made from chickpeas, green peas and lentils, fenugreek and Urfa Biber and topped with pea shoots. The Spiced Labneh adds a creamy taste and the pistachios add another crunchy dimension to the dish.
The meal twists continue with the Stuffed Chicken Wings, Togarashi. This is Model Milk’s play on Chicken Cordon Bleu, The wings are deboned and then stuffed with smoked ham, chicken mousse, swiss cheese, reskinned, fried to crispy and then topped with Togarashi (which is a blend of seven Japanese spices including red chili pepper, orange, sesame, ginger, seaweed and Japanese pepper).
The burger has become the new guilty pleasure on every restaurant menu, thanks to Mark McEwen in Canada and Daniel Boulud who started the trend in New York. The Model Milk burger is topped with a mushroom ragout, ham hock, and cheese curd. It is made from ground brisket and sits on a house-made bun with Russian dressing. My only complaint was that the french fries could have been crispier (being a french fry fan), but in no way did that take anything away from the greatness of the burger.
Matt, the General Manager and JF, our server were extremely enthusiastic and knowledgeable about the food and wines. Their weekly staff meeting includes wine tasting so they are up to speed on what to recommend. No wonder they love their jobs!
If you know you are going to Calgary for Stampede, work or a visit, book a table and have your own model meal!
Where and when: 308 17 Ave SW, Calgary, Alberta; Open daily from 5pm.
